Before dawn, I set off from the Rushaga Gate for an incredible journey through the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, on a solo trek to observe the Bikingi gorilla group. With me were my guide, four dedicated trackers who spend each day with the gorillas for habituation, and two security guards – a necessity due to the trek’s proximity to the Congo border.
The forest greeted us with steep, slippery slopes, and as we hacked through the dense foliage with machetes, the anticipation built. Our first encounter was with Kaharata, the silverback of the Bikingi family, perched regally amidst the greenery. Soon after, Mucecuru, the mother, and her baby Bayoroba emerged. Bayoroba, just barely visible through the foliage, peeked out as Mucecuru slowly woke up. She’d had a rough night, resting a bit longer than usual after a bout of illness, but was soon up and munching on leaves, joined by the rest of the group.
As the gorillas began their morning routine, the juvenile blackbacks, Kahundu and Kiryateija, added a playful twist, moving within a few feet of me as they goofed around. They had a destination in mind and moved swiftly, so we followed their tracks after briefly losing them.
When we finally caught up, it was at a cluster of towering trees they were eager to climb for a feast. I leaned against one of these giants, camera in hand, capturing the scene, when suddenly a blackback charged at me, roaring and beating his chest in protest. Mucecuru, visibly agitated by the commotion, quickly joined him, rushing toward me. My breath caught as I took a hasty step back, heart pounding, realizing I had unknowingly blocked their path to the tree. It took several tense minutes for my hands to stop trembling, the raw power and intensity of that close encounter leaving a lasting impression.
After the tension faded, I was gifted an extraordinary scene: Mucecuru, having exhausted herself, lay down, giving me a clear view of little Bayoroba nestled beside her. As the family settled into their feast, I watched Kaharata, the majestic silverback, enjoying his meal, the forest coming alive with the quiet sounds of their gathering.
With my four hours up, it was time to head back, but the memory of that trek – the thrill, beauty, and closeness to these incredible creatures – will stay with me. The experience also highlighted the tension between the gorillas and the local communities surrounding Bwindi. As the forest’s resources shrink, gorillas increasingly venture into nearby farmland, impacting the livelihoods of local farmers. These encounters strain the delicate balance between conservation efforts and the needs of those living alongside this endangered species. The trek reminded me of the importance of finding solutions that honor both wildlife and the people sharing their habitat.
